NELSON'S NOTES #49

Sent from the Thousand Islands area of New York State

Aug. 14, 2005

THE FLAVOR OF QUEBEC CITY

At the end of July, we went to Quebec City.  Quebec is an Indian word meaning "narrow place in the river." Despite the fact that the St. Lawrence is a fresh water river, the Atlantic Ocean tide reaches as far as Quebec and its motion breaks up the ice and keeps the city's port open in winter.

Battles took place in Quebec in defense of "nouveau France" (new France). That's why the province license plate says, "Je me souviens," meaning "I remember" Quebec's history.

To protect the city from invaders, La Citidel de Quebec was constructed on a rock bed in the highest part of the city. Built over a period of 30 years, 1820-1850, the big fort has only one entrance and a top that's covered with thick camouflaging grass that makes it looks like a park, not a fort.

The lower town, the oldest part of the city, will celebrate its 400th anniversary in 2008. The upper town, confusingly called "Vieux Quebec" (old Quebec), is a walled city with four gates. For three nights, we stayed in Vieux Quebec on Rue de St. Genevieve at the Chateau Fleur de Lys. Although the 100-year-old house is quaint, most of its 18 rooms are small and modestly furnished. But the chateau is in a picturesque location and a short walk from the "terrasse," a square above the river where street musicians and others perform under the statue of Samuel de Champlain. Also, it's close to Rue de Saint Louis and its many excellent restaurants. We went to both places often.

Priscilla and David Keay with me on the terrasse in Vieux Quebec. We were watching outdoor performers like the ones below and then a sunset that made the Chateau de Frontenac glow.

Rather than climbing many steps to get to the lower town from the upper town, we rode the funiculaire, a glassed-in cable car, for a dollar each.

A colorful street and a 3-dimensional mural in the lower town.

A traditional changing-of-the-guard ceremony with a goat mascot at La Citadel de Quebec. To this day, the citadel is an active military base. During the ceremony, members of the regiment wear wool uniforms and Napoleon-style hats. Out in the hot sun for 35 minutes, they march to a band, shout commands and inspect the ranks.

Hey, who's this guy?--he's late for the ceremony!

Photos by Bruce Nelson. Text by Marianna Nelson

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